Monthly Archives: March 2015

Jam Sandwich Ice Cream (Bramble & Brown Bread)

I’d be misleading you if I pretended that ice cream was a trivial thing to make, but I’d be doing you a worse disservice if I pretended it wasn’t worth it. Desserts, I rather feel, SHOULD be a bit more effort. A treat. A celebration!

This ice cream is, for me, a true celebration of English summer – it tastes like the simple joy of a perfect picnic and has a silk-and-velvet mouthfeel that is pure luxury. Homemade ice cream, additive-free and unique in flavour, is a wonderful thing to make – and with an ice cream maker and a few non-classical tricks, a reliable one too. Please don’t let the length of the recipe put you off – if you can make cake, you can easily make the ice cream base – a custard-based vanilla gelato.

If you wanted to ripple through some homemade stewed fruit (simple as leaving apples in a pan over heat to make applesauce, or caramelising bananas with some butter and brown sugar on the stove, or a saucepan of frozen berries cooked down into a sauce), you’ve already made a wonderful concoction far better, I believe, than any fruit-based ice cream because fresh fruit flavours just cannot be replicated on an industrial scale. (In fairness, I prefer bought ice creams for chocolate, caramel and nut flavours – when I’ve tried making my own, these are not better than their good quality bought counterparts. And, just to be clear – and contradicting my first paragraph – I very much enjoy a good bought ice cream, which sometimes should be in the freezer and available with absolutely no effort at all.)

But can I suggest you have a go at this version, with brown bread praline (easy to make!) and bramble jam? The buttery nutty caramel flavour is a wonderful warm counterpoint to the delicate high notes of freshly-picked blackberries, which add a lightness to the ice cream like sunbeams breaking through the trees, dappling bramble thickets with spots of dancing light.

Jam Sandwich Ice Cream

Bramble & Brown Bread ice cream, pre-freezer

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Easy Beef Pho (more “Faux” than authentic “Pho”)

This is a cheap, comforting-but-healthy bowl of tender rib meat and bone broth. And it’s super-easy to make – the passage of time does all the work for you. It’s hands-off pho, as 1. apart from roughly chopping some aromatics and slipping the tender meat off the bones at the end of cooking, you really don’t do much, and 2. it also stands for “Hands off my pho!” because once I’ve got my slurp on with a bowl of this umami sensation, I’m not prepared to share! Vietnamese Beef Pho Continue reading